News Summary
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- Record-breaking climber Nirmal Purja (Nims Dai) has set a world record by summiting 57 mountains taller than 8,000 meters.
- In 2019, Nirmal Purja left a lucrative career in the British Army to complete 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in just six months as part of the ‘Project Possible’ campaign.
- Currently, widespread prayers and search efforts are underway for Nims Dai and other climbers who went missing during the Broad Peak expedition.
15 Shrawan, Kathmandu – Born in Myagdi, Nirmal Purja, popularly known as Nims Dai, served in the British Army. His international recognition as a mountaineer only emerged after his time as a Gurkha soldier.
According to his official website, Nimsdaidotcom, he spent a total of 16 years in military service—6 years as a Gurkha and 10 years in the UK Special Forces (SBS).
Though born in Myagdi, he was raised in Chitwan, which led to limited early exposure to mountains. At 18 in 2003, he joined the Gurkha soldiers, fulfilling his childhood goal of following in his father and brothers’ footsteps into the British Army.
Nims Dai showed a determined spirit for achieving his dreams, and in 2009 he became the first Gurkha soldier to join the Special Boat Service, a unit typically composed of Royal Marines Commandos engaged in covert and strategic operations.
He began mountaineering in 2012, sparked by a visit to the Everest Base Camp during a leave from his Special Forces duties. This trip heightened his fascination and ambition for mountain climbing.
Upon returning to Kathmandu, he expressed his desire to learn climbing to a guide and successfully summited 6,019-meter Lobuche East mountain alongside him—marking his first step into mountaineering.
After his initial climb, he returned to military service, becoming an expert in cold-weather warfare within the SBS. Nims Dai developed the ability to make quick decisions in challenging conditions while ensuring the safety of others, qualities that would later aid him in difficult climbs.
Upon leaving military service, he returned to Nepal and continued his mountaineering pursuits with focus not just on summiting but also rescuing and aiding fellow climbers in distress.
In 2019, Mingma Dawa Sherpa, a record-shattering climber and parliamentarian from the Rastriya Swatantra Party (Raswapa), joined Nims Dai on an expedition. Sherpa noted that Nims possessed a strong determination to finish every task, contributing to his many successes.
That year, Nims Dai created history by summiting 14 peaks above 8,000 meters in under six months, leaving behind a lucrative British Army career.
His teammate David set a new record by summiting those 14 peaks in the same campaign. In 2021, Nims Dai, David, and a team of 10 Nepali climbers made global headlines by achieving the first successful winter ascent of Mount K2.
This is a recent example showcasing how Nepalese climbers value teamwork over individual competition. Since then, Nims Dai has repeatedly conquered Everest and set various records, including summiting Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu in just five days.
According to Nimsdaidotcom, his exceptional physical ability to climb rapidly and quickly adapt to high altitude motivated him to undertake ambitious projects.
Despite many considering his records impossible, he quit a well-paying British Army job to dedicate himself fully to mountaineering. His campaign was known as ‘Project Possible.’ Soon, he successfully completed his goal of summiting all targeted peaks in under seven months, ultimately announcing mission completion from the summit of Shishapangma in less than six months.
As a Gurkha soldier, he played a critical role in the success of the Everest expedition. For his achievements at peaks over 8,000 meters, he received the MBE honor from Queen Elizabeth II. Additionally, he promoted adventure tourism by performing a sky dive from Everest.
According to MP Sherpa, just last week, Nims Dai completed his 57th ascent of an 8,000-meter peak, setting a new record; among these, 29 ascents were done without supplemental oxygen.
He recently completed his 57th ascent by scaling Gasherbrum II in Pakistan, although he was not part of the Broad Peak expedition this time.
Reviewing his record of 8,000-meter peak ascents, had he climbed Broad Peak this time, he would have established a world record for summiting all 14 such mountains without oxygen twice, except for Cho Oyu.
Nims Dai states that his competition is not with others. On social media platform Facebook, he has shared the challenges faced during his 14-peak expedition, praying, ‘Broad Peak, I only desire a safe climb and return path.’
We too join in praying to God: May Nims Dai and the missing climbers on Broad Peak return safely.
