Broad Peak Avalanche: Growing Role of Nepali Sherpas in Pakistan Amid ‘Fourteen Peaks’ Discussion
The Nepali mountaineering community is reflecting on last Thursday’s Broad Peak avalanche, considered the largest mountaineering disaster abroad in decades, with increasing interest in the expanding role of Nepali climbers in Pakistan. On Saturday, Nepali expedition officials confirmed the deaths of all 10 members, including six Nepalis and several missing foreigners, who had been unaccounted for two days. With six Nepali climbers involved in the single incident, experts emphasize the need to investigate the legacy of the ‘Fourteen Peaks’ challenge and the growing presence of the Nepali Sherpa community in Pakistan’s mountaineering sector.
The ‘Fourteen Peaks’ refers to the climbing of all 14 Himalayan peaks above 8,000 meters. Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja, born in Nepal and a former British Special Boat Service (SBS) operative, achieved this feat in an unprecedented six months in 2019, drastically reducing a process that typically takes years. South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho held the previous record, completing all peaks in seven years, ten months, and six days—a record unbroken for a decade. The legendary Reinhold Messner took nearly 16 years to complete the challenge.
Purja’s 189-day record-breaking achievement gained international acclaim through a Netflix documentary. His pioneering ascent accelerated the pace of high-altitude mountaineering worldwide. Ishwari Paudel, acting president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, stated, “There is no doubt that Nimsdai is the greatest promoter of the Fourteen Peaks challenge. His contributions have provided significant employment opportunities for Nepali Sherpas beyond Nepal, especially in Pakistan.”
Pakistan is essential for the Fourteen Peaks expedition, hosting five of the world’s 14 highest peaks: K2 (8,611 m), Nanga Parbat (8,126 m), Gasherbrum I (8,080 m), Broad Peak (8,051 m), and Gasherbrum II (8,035 m). Purja’s record was halved in 2023 by Norwegian Kristin Harila and Sherpa Tenjen Lama. That same year, Tenjen Lama tragically died in an avalanche while climbing Shishapangma in Tibet.
