Source, Reuters
Government officials and Sherpas have revealed that clearing the Mount Everest climbing route has been delayed due to a large avalanche formed during the winter season.
The government has tasked the Everest Pollution Control Committee (EPCC) with preparing the route up to Camp 2, while the Mountaineering Expedition Association is responsible for the upper sections of the route.
Icefall doctors assigned to set up ropes reached Base Camp three weeks ago and have been attempting to extend the path to Camp 1. However, according to officials, progress has been slower than planned.
Each year, icefall doctors usually complete rope installations before the New Year to prepare for the spring climbing season. Dumbar Parajuli, President of the Mountaineering Association, stated that in previous years, rope installations up to Camp 3 were generally finished by early April.
However, this year, Sherpas have reported that rope installation was halted because of the formation of a roughly 100-meter-high ice serac—a pillar of ice—near Camp 1.
Tourism Department Director General Lamichhane explained that to ensure the safety of icefall doctors and climbers, the ice must naturally melt and fall.
“Due to technical challenges, rope installation has been delayed. A large ice chunk is still unstable and has not fallen yet. Work can only proceed once it falls,” Director Lamichhane said, citing the information from icefall doctors.
What Are the Alternatives?
Source, EPA-EFE/REX/Shutterstock
Many climbers have already reached Base Camp and are undergoing high-altitude acclimatization and training.
According to the Tourism Department, Sherpas believe the ice will eventually melt and fall naturally, a conclusion supported by recent monitoring.
Experienced icefall doctor Ang Sarki Sherpa confirmed that the serac is definitely melting and indicated its base is weakened.
“We observed on April 10 that there is an approximately 100-meter-high ice pillar. The lower part has already melted and is breaking from above,” he reported from Everest Base Camp on Monday. Other Sherpas have also noted the instability of the serac.
Veteran Sherpas stated that the serac located about 600 meters below Camp 1 would need to melt before any alternative is available, emphasizing patience is necessary. They also mentioned attempts to find a path around the serac but no safe route has been discovered.
“There is no alternative. We searched for four days around but could not find a solid path on either side,” one Sherpa told via phone.
Some Sherpas have suggested potential detours; however, they warn these are risky. Furba Tenzing Sherpa highlighted the increased likelihood of accidents as the ice melts.
An alternative route from the base near Base Camp towards Camp 1 was studied this season, but Sherpas have stated that it is considered too far away at this time.
Mountaineering Association President Parajuli has also confirmed there is no alternative ice route below Camp 1.
“We have brought all the equipment to Base Camp and completed preparations in the first week of April. But trying to advance beyond Camp 1 is like crossing a river,” he explained.
The weather is expected to remain favorable until the end of May. Once the serac melts, the rope installation process to Camp 2 and then towards the summit is anticipated to be completed within a week.
How Many Are Climbing Everest?
Source, Reuters
Despite conflicts in the Middle East and rising costs, expedition organizers report a significant influx of foreign climbers coming to scale Everest.
According to the Tourism Department, 367 climbers have secured permits so far with the number expected to increase.
Interestingly, Chinese nationals now hold the highest number of permits, whereas Americans and Indians previously led the count.
The second-largest group comprises Americans, followed by Indians, British, Japanese, and Russian nationals.
Pressure on Nepal as China Does Not Issue Permits
Source, Reuters
Organizers have reported that China has not issued any permits to foreign nationals seeking access via the Tibetan side this year.
Many climbers who cannot obtain permits through the Tibetan route are expected to attempt reaching the summit via Nepal.
“Even if China does not issue permits, climbing from the Nepal side is internationally recognized, so many people will ascend here,” said Mountaineering Association President Parajuli. Last year, over 700 climbers reached the summit from Nepal, while only about 100 did so from China.
Following the widely circulated images of long climber queues on Everest in 2019, the Tourism Department tightened permit issuance from Nepal.
This season, the Tourism Department has increased climbing fees as well. The royalty fee for foreign climbers in the spring season has risen from $11,000 to $15,000, while Nepali citizens must pay between NPR 75,000 and NPR 150,000.
Parajuli stated that despite the fee hike, the number of climbers has not decreased.
“Although there are flight issues, while trekking numbers may have dipped slightly, mountaineering figures remain notably steady,” he added.
This report is also available in Nepali on YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. Additionally, the Nepali BBC service and radio programs broadcast from Monday to Friday at 8:45 PM.
