Authorities and Sherpas have reported delays in preparing the climbing route on Mount Everest due to a massive ice serac formed during the winter season. The government assigned the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) responsibility for route fixing up to Camp II, while the Federation of Mountaineering Associations handles the route above that. Although icefall doctors tasked with ‘rope fixing’ reached base camp three weeks ago, the Tourism Department revealed they have yet to complete route fixing up to Camp I as scheduled.
Traditionally, icefall doctors complete rope fixing before the New Year to facilitate spring ascents. According to Dambar Parajuli, president of the Federation of Mountaineering Associations, in previous years the rope fixing up to Camp III was completed by the first week of Baishakh (mid-April). However, this year, a roughly 100-meter-high ice serac, or large ice block, near Camp I has blocked progress, according to Sherpas. Tourism Department Director-General Lamichhane explained that the ice must melt for the safety of the icefall doctors and climbers.
“Technical challenges have delayed rope fixing. One ice serac remains unstable. We’ve heard that work can only proceed once this serac collapses,” said Director-General Lamichhane, citing information from icefall doctors. Many climbers have already gathered at base camp to acclimatize and prepare for the harsh high-altitude Himalayan environment. Government agencies expect the ice to melt naturally, a prediction confirmed by recent monitoring.
A experienced icefall doctor, Ang Sarki Sherpa, expressed confidence that the ice serac will eventually weaken and melt from below. “We visited the area on April 10. The serac stands about 100 meters tall. The lower part has already melted, and it’s dripping from the top,” he reported from Everest Base Camp on Monday. Other Sherpas have since observed signs that the serac is breaking up. Located about 600 meters below Camp I, the serac must melt before any further progress can be made, he added.
Ang Sarki also noted that no alternative route could be found: “We spent four days exploring the area for another path, but there’s no safe route to the right or left.” Some Sherpas suggested that a slight deviation in the route is possible but risky. Phurba Tenzing Sherpa warned that thawing ice still poses significant dangers. While an alternative route starting lower than base camp to Camp I was studied last season, Sherpas say it is too distant to be practical this season.
President Parajuli emphasized there isn’t a lower ice serac path below Camp I. “We have moved all supplies to base camp and completed preparations after the first week of April. But moving above Camp I is now like crossing a river,” he said. Forecasts predict favorable weather through the end of May, and once the serac melts, rope fixing is expected to finish up to Camp II within days, and to the summit within a week.
Despite ongoing conflicts and inflation in the Middle East, organizers say the number of foreign climbers aiming to scale Everest remains substantial. According to the Tourism Department, 367 climbers have secured permits so far this season. Officials anticipate this figure will rise as permits continue to be issued. Notably, Chinese nationals currently hold the largest share of climbing permits, surpassing Americans and Indians who previously dominated the numbers. The second largest groups include climbers from the US, India, the UK, Japan, and Russia.
Climbing organizers report pressure in Nepal following China’s decision not to issue permits for foreign climbers this year on the Tibetan side. Since Tibet’s route is closed to foreigners, many climbers are expected to attempt the summit via Nepal. Federation President Parajuli stated, “Whether China issues permits or not, Nepal’s route to Everest is internationally recognized. Hence, many will climb from here.” Last year, over 700 climbers summited via Nepal with guides, compared to about 100 via China.
After images of climbers queuing on Everest in 2019 circulated publicly, the Tourism Department tightened permit issuance. This season, climbing fees on Everest have also been increased. Spring season foreign climbers’ royalty payments rose from US$11,000 to US$15,000, while Nepalese climbers’ fees increased from NPR 75,000 to NPR 150,000. Despite the hike, Parajuli said climber numbers have not declined significantly. “There may be a slight drop due to flight disruptions, but the impact is not as severe as seen in trekking,” he noted.
