On May 9, 2013, the 70th anniversary of the first ascent of Manaslu mountain was commemorated. Standing at 8,163 meters, Manaslu is a challenging and perilous peak where numerous accidents have occurred. Despite its risks, the number of climbers attempting to summit Manaslu continues to grow. May 9 marks the day celebrating 70 years of Manaslu expeditions.
I recently succeeded in reaching the Manaslu Base Camp. Upon arrival, I reflected on why I had arrived so late and felt some regret.
The journey began on foot from Sirdibas in Gorkha, enjoying the scenery, landscape, and beauty of the upper villages along the banks of the Budhigandaki River. I traveled by jeep from Gorkha Bazaar to Arughat and then to Sirdibas. Over the next three days, the trek continued through Jagat, Namrung, and Lho before finally reaching Samagaun, located at 3,530 meters altitude, early the next morning to prepare for the ascent to base camp. Samagaun was very cold, and the environment there clearly indicated the reduction in oxygen levels. Setting out early in the morning, I proceeded towards Manaslu Base Camp. Upon reaching 4,800 meters, the exhaustion of city life eased, and breathing became somewhat easier.
At base camp, many experiences unfolded. The first rays of sunlight striking Manaslu’s summit caused the snow to glisten with a warm glow as the light gradually descended, resembling a ray of hope. It seemed as though the mountain comes alive only at sunrise. This is the Manaslu climbing season, with the mountain standing 8,163 meters tall. The area was crowded with climbers eager to ascend. Porters carried heavy loads while workers prepared accommodation by shaping the earth. No one appeared to have any spare time.
After spending an extended period at the cold, high altitude, I began to experience difficulty breathing and felt as if my breath was stalling. An oximeter revealed my SPO2 levels had dropped. After having coffee and thukpa, I started my descent. While heading downhill, my mind wandered. The sight of Birendra Tal captivated me, but seeing the suffering of porters and pack animals burdened with heavy loads brought a bitter feeling. Manaslu is among the world’s most hazardous mountains. As the eighth highest peak on earth, it is notorious for avalanches, severe weather, and difficult terrain, all contributing to many accidents over the years. Regardless of the risks, even after 70 years, the number of climbers scaling Manaslu continues to increase.
